Grove to Table, From Olives to Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Every year, when we talk about the incredible taste and health benefits of our Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO), we always emphasize the care that goes into the extraction process. But what does that process actually look like?

Recently, a detailed look into modern milling gave us a chance to dive deep into two of the most critical, yet often unseen, steps in turning olives into liquid gold: Crushing and Malaxation.

Recently we had a chance to experience the 2025 olive harvest on the island of Brač in Croatia. We had the opportunity to tour a modern olive oil mill, the one in central Supetar uses the Pieralisi Modulo 4/M system, the entire journey from fruit to oil is relatively fast, but not too fast— just over an hour. Here is a detailed look at the science behind making extra virgin olive oil (EVOO).

1. The Crushing: From Fruit to Paste

The very first mechanical act after the olives are cleaned of leaves and debris is the Crushing (or Milling). This is the process that converts the whole olive fruit—pulp, skin, and pits—into a uniform olive paste.

• The Technology: While historical mills used heavy stone rollers, modern mills rely on a metal hammermill. This machine uses rapidly spinning metal blades (hammers) to efficiently pulverize the olives.

• The Role of the Pit: A common question is whether the hard olive pits are removed. The answer is no: the pits are crushed along with the flesh. This is done both for efficiency and for quality. Crushing the pit slightly helps release key polyphenols (powerful antioxidants) that contribute to the finished oil's characteristic bitterness and pungency—the two factors connoisseurs seek in high-quality EVOO.

  
  

2. Malaxation: The Gentle Kneading

Immediately following crushing, the paste is moved into a stainless steel vat called the malaxer. This phase, often mistakenly called maceration, is officially known as Malaxation.

The name itself is derived from the Latin verb malaxāre, meaning "to soften" or "to knead," which perfectly describes the gentle action inside the tank.

Why We Knead the Paste

The crushing process creates a chaotic mash of solids, water, and microscopic oil droplets that are still emulsified (mixed) throughout the paste. The malaxation phase is vital because it:

1. Coalesces Droplets: The slow, continuous stirring allows the microscopic oil droplets to collide and merge, coalescing into drops large enough to be efficiently separated later.

2. Prepares for Centrifugation: It prepares the oil for the high-speed centrifuge, which relies on the density difference between the now-larger oil drops, the water, and the solid pomace.

   
   

The Critical Cold Extraction Constraint

For any oil to be legally labeled as "cold-extracted" or "cold-pressed," the temperature of the olive paste must not exceed 27c or 80.6F during the entire malaxation phase. This strict temperature control is paramount, as higher temperatures—while increasing oil flow and yield—can degrade the volatile compounds and polyphenols that define premium quality.

3. The Trade-Off: Optimal Malaxation Time

The time the olive paste spends in the malaxer is the point of greatest conflict between a mill's desire for profit and the quest for quality.

The general optimal range for malaxation in premium EVOO production is 20 to 45 minutes. The time chosen dictates the final balance of yield versus quality.

Malaxation Factor	Shorter Time (20–30 Minutes)	Longer Time (40–45 Minutes)
Oil Yield	Lower	Higher
Polyphenols	High retention of beneficial antioxidants.	Lower concentration due to oxidation.
Flavor Profile	Intense, fruity, and robust due to high retention of Volatile Compounds.	Flatter, less vibrant, as volatile compounds evaporate (or "strip" out).
Oxidation	Minimal air exposure preserves shelf life.	Increased exposure raises the risk of oxidation and flavor defects.

A Commitment to Quality: Most Croatian EVOO producers prioritize the retention of those vibrant flavors and beneficial polyphenols. By operating within the minimum optimal time—often closer to the 20-30 minute range - they accept a slightly lower yield in exchange for a superior, more flavourful, and healthier EVOO.

After malaxation is complete, the entire paste is rapidly moved to the centrifuge, where the golden liquid is spun away from the pomace (the solids, including the crushed pits) and olive water, completing the journey to the bottle.

If you are interested in participating in next year's olive harvest, register for our newsletter and we'll let you know as soon as we are ready to start taking reservations.